Anycubic Chiron Auto Level Gcode

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The Anycubic Chiron is a FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) 3D printer with a large installation space, many comfort functions and a fair price-performance ratio. With a space of 400 x 400 x 450 mm even larger objects can be realized. It has huge build volume of 15.75” x 15.75” x 17.72”(400 x 400 x 450mm).

Everyone wants to get more space for whatever they are working be it, your professional work or your hobby.


The more the space for creation, the better you can create for years to come. The liquid crystal display (LCD) touch-screen is very large and it has been mounted at a very easy-to-see and use angle.

It is convenient to operate and responds very quickly responds to any commands you give to the machine. It also has an independent Double Z Limit Switch, which allows a stable level with respect to the print bed.

Automatically detect 25 points, supports real-time adjustment Real-time compensation of nozzle height. I'de like to share this. I've tuned it to purge the nozzle in a way it starts printing the actual print as soon as the nozzle touches the bed, with no ooze or derby on the tip.

Experiment yourselves to see if it fits your needs: .

M104 S0 ; turn off extruderM140 S0 ; turn off bedM84 ; disable motorsM107 ; fans offG91 ; relative positioningG1 E-6 F2400 ; retract the filamentG1 Z+0.5 ;X-20 Y-20 F7200 ; wipe from modelG28 X0 ;Y0 ; move X/Y to min endstopsG1 Y180 F2000 ;M84 ; steppers offG90M300 P300 S4000.

For example, we found that if the heater block on the unit wasn’t completely level, then the Vyper would press the nozzle down into the bed with extreme force causing even more pressure on the strain gauge. With such a delicate component, every pound per square inch matters.

Additionally, if the bed on the unit isn’t adjusted properly, or if any component has a wobble, the strain gauge won’t register correctly, and auto-leveling will hang. Three dreaded beeps denote this hanging before the LCD reports “Probing…” indefinitely.

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425 five star reviews and counting

If you’ve experienced those beeps or had the nozzle gouge your print surface during a print, then you’ll know how frustrating this issue is to troubleshoot. But there are ways to get the Vyper working correctly.

Disclaimer: If you take your Vyper apart, you very well may void the warranty. So, before you attempt any of these steps, you should contact Anycubic for support if you are within the warranty period. Additionally, 3D printers are delicate machines, and disassembly can cause irreparable damage if you’re not careful. Therefore, if you undertake this project, you do so at your own risk. If you’re not comfortable, then now is the time to stop and consult a professional.

Step 1: Return the Bed and Hot End to the Home Position

The first step in fixing this issue is to send the hot end and bed back to the home positions. Do this by turning the unit off, then on. Then, on the LCD, navigate to Tools > Move Access > Home All.

When you do this, the hot end should slide along the gantry into the home position, and the bed should move to the rear of the printer. At that point, turn off your Vyper. Setting everything in the home position will make bed adjustments and the lower guide wheel adjustment on the hot end much more manageable.

Step 2: Adjust the Build Surface

Using just hand pressure, try to move the bed downward slightly. You shouldn’t feel any wobble when you do this. If you do, then that is an indicator that your bed needs to be adjusted.

To adjust the bed, you can use the supplied large open-end wrench. If you’re facing the unit, you’ll notice two hex axles above each of the printer’s guide wheels on the right underside of the bed. These hex axles will allow you to raise or lower the bed to remove any slack. Turn the axles clockwise.

Start by only rotating the screws one-quarter turn and then apply pressure to the bed surface. Do this in one-quarter or one-half turn increments, rechecking the bed frequently until the wobble stops.

Additionally, pull the bed forward while making this adjustment and test the bed in different positions. Using this method, you should be able to remove any play. Once complete, you’ll turn to the hot end.

Step 3: Adjust Hot End Wobble

Like the bed, the hot end of the Vyper shouldn’t have any wobble. Grab the outer shell and lightly try and rotate the bottom portion toward the top. It should be tight. If you feel any play, you’ll need to adjust the hot end until it’s gone.

You may be tempted to use a wrench on the top guide wheels to do so, but that’s not the correct way to adjust this unit. Instead, use the large end of the provided open-end wrench on the hex axle of the bottom guide wheel.

If you’re facing the front of the unit, you’ll rotate counter-clockwise to tighten and clockwise to loosen. Tighten until you’ve rid the hot end of any wobble, but don't overdo it. Tiny adjustments are all you need here, and the guide wheels are delicate. Too much torque will wear them out quickly.

Related: Everything You Need to Know About 3D Printing

Step 4: Adjust the Strain Gauge, Nozzle, and Heater Block

Finally, check that the heater block and strain gauge are level with the bed surface. You may have to remove the plastic cover from around the hot end to see the strain gauge, but look closely at the heater block before you do.

Is it level? Does it look crooked when facing the unit from either the front or the side? If so, use a 12mm open-end wrench to straighten it out slightly. Often, straightening will prevent the need to adjust the strain gauge. But be gentle here. If you adjust something too much, you might damage the hot end.

While you’re there, check the nozzle as well and make sure there isn’t any damage to it. High pressure on soft brass can sometimes warp the nozzle opening. If you find there’s an issue, you might have to change the nozzle before continuing.

You now have two choices. First, if you find you’ve made a significant adjustment and you don’t want to take apart the hot end, you can try to rerun auto bed-leveling. Just be aware that if the process doesn’t work and the hot end gets pressed into the bed, you might have to repeat these steps.

If, instead, you’re keen on checking the strain gauge for damage, then remove the hex-head bolts and data cable from the hot end. Next, remove the zip tie securing the data wire, but make sure to replace it with a new one when you’re finished.

Once you’ve got everything apart, take a picture of the connections. Then, remove the two screws and all of the wires attaching the heating components directly above the hot end circuit board.

From there, remove the heating components and examine the black strain gauge. Does it look warped or bent? Does it hold the hot end level? If not, then you can try to adjust the gauge slightly.

Remember, though, this is a delicate component, so go easy. If there is too much bend or other signs of damage like flaking paint or burnt wires, you need to contact Anycubic.

Related: 3D Printing Mistakes You Should Avoid to Get Better Prints

Step 5: Reinitiate Auto-Leveling

The last step in this process is to put everything back together and restart auto-leveling. If you’ve done things correctly, then auto-leveling on the Vyper should complete without any issues. Once finished, you can start test printing. Unfortunately, if you’re still having problems, then you should contact Anycubic directly for additional help.

Enjoy Your Auto-Leveled Anycubic Vyper

The Anycubic Vyper is an excellent printer, but if you’ve experienced any auto-leveling issues, then you’re probably pulling your hair out. But with this handy guide, you can solve most auto-leveling woes without the hassle of shipping the printer back to the manufacturer.

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