Anycubic I3 Mega Extruder Upgrade

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Because of its dependable performance and exceptional value for money, Anycubic’s Mega S has become one of the most sought after 3D printers.

However, there are a variety of upgrades available for this machine, including alternative hotends, fans, and spool holders, for easy printing and to improve the end product.

There are a variety of Anycubic i3 Mega upgrades and tweaks that can upscale the low-cost 3D printer into a powerful machine.

More on Upgrading i3 Mega

  • Some modifications and mods for the Anycubic i3 Mega can be 3D printed on the fly.
  • One can buy some of the other upgrades for installing on the 3D printer to enhance specific areas of the printing process.
  • We will review some of these upgrades and mods for the i3 Mega.
  • Various improvements can be used to reduce the noise level of the Mega S.
  • Quieter fans can be used to replace the ones for the power supply, hot-end, and the mainboard.
  • Anycubic has cut corners with the Mega S to introduce a very low cost 3D printer.
  • In the Mega S, quiet fans are sadly one of them.

MOFSET for the Mainboard

Z-Axis Stability

Using an ultra-quiet fan with the product would have resulted in a more costly printer.

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Yet, when it comes to noise levels, people hardly notice it.

Operational Upgrades

Only after getting into the groove of 3D printing for some time, the noise factor is noticed.

And then they want to solve the issue.

But, thankfully, many creative amateurs have already solved this issue! Let us preview what these solutions are.

One can make significant gains in reducing the noise levels by replacing the fan for the hot-end.


It’s also easier to replace this fan than that of the other components of the Mega S. Also, there is no need to print any other parts. One such replacement fan is the NF-A4x10 FLX fan. After replacing it is hard to notice the noise as there is hardly any. $13.95 In Stock.

Bed handle​

It’s a little more difficult to replace the power supply fan. One will need an f-printed part here!


As a fan, the NF-A9x14 PWM is excellent. It’s also barely audible, if at all, and provides sufficient power to keep the PSU cool.

Bed isolation

To replace the fan of the power supply, one has to first print the correct cover for the PSU case. Because one has to first determine which variant to print, users will need to remove and reassemble the Mega S twice and complete the rest of the process.

Securing the Printer and Cables

Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentFan XM2 40x40x10mm Silent Fan, 3800RPM, 14 dBa (Electronics)

So first verify the power supply’s version and then print the matching housing. $11.99 In Stock.

Replacing the fan on the mainboard fan for noise reduction makes a lot of sense. Yet, one needs to print the fan mount first before deconstructing the 3D printer.

The NF-A9x14 PWM is a good replacement fan for the mainboard. To get more juice out of the i3 Mega, one can upgrade or enhance the standard hotend of the printer.

Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (40x10mm, Brown)

This includes tinkering with the following parts for the hotend. Build a new cover or a case for the Hotend.

This can be larger in size such as honeycomb-like holes for regulating airflow.

Change the right side fan with a silent one such as the Noctua NF A4x10.

New Fans for the i3 mega

Leave the left side fan as is as it has less issues. Use a design for the fan duct with cooling happening both ways such as the Part Cooling Fan Duct.

$15.99 In Stock. Anycubic Chiron upgradesAnycubic I3 Mega Auto Bed LevelingAnycubic I3 Mega Cura Settings.

One of the most significant modifications you can make is to purchase a MOSFET.

This is because the MOSFET will protect the motherboard from overheating and putting too much strain on it.

This Anycubic i3 Mega modification is intended to lower the risk of fire.

It also ensures improved voltage power for the motors, resulting in higher printing quality.

Upgrading Anycubic i3 mega

The MOSFET is most commonly used with 3D printers to control the heavy workload placed on the mainboard by the heated bed. Thus far no mishaps with the Anycubic i3 Mega have been reported.

Replacement for the Power Supply Fan

Yet, the hotbed’s high current can cause stress on the mainboard contacts, increasing the risk of a fire or hardware failure.

Installing a MOSFET to the Anycubic i3 Mega is particularly critical if users have to print using ABS.

This filament needs higher extrusion and bed temperatures. Using PLA filaments may not require much heating.

Yet, it’s a good idea to make sure the heatbed doesn’t overheat the printer’s mainboard.

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Proper MOSFET assembly necessitates some hands-on experimenting.

Yet, there are many techniques on YouTube that can help users. One may also print the holder for the MOSFET, to get it safely mounted inside the 3D printer’s base.

The stepper motor that comes with the filament feeder has been known to overheat, according to certain users. An overheated stepper motor will eventually begin to skip steps, resulting in sloppy prints.

Some users have suggested adding heatsinks to passively cool down the stepper motor.

For others, though, this alternative was ineffective.

Anycubic Ultrabase Platform for 3D Printer (240×220+ Hotbed) (Misc.)

Instead, they used a 3D printed mount to attach an extra fan to the motor.

There are no screws necessary for installing.

Fan for the Hotend

All of the components in this i3 Mega upgrade are designed to snap into place by themselves.

Users must connect the auxiliary fan to the power supply unit if they want it to turn on when the 3D printer is turned on.

This is a simple technique that requires only the removal of the printer’s base cover to gain entry to the PSU.

All that one has to do next is fix the power cord by screwing into the PSU.

It is safe to say that one should open the base cover with caution and disconnect the 3D printer before doing so!

Coolerguys 12v Ultra Quiet Fan for 3D Printers

$13.95 In Stock. Some argue that such an i3 Mega upgrade is ineffective since it does not address the root issue.

As a result, they recommend lowering the current applied on the motor. The Anycubic Mega S, like most other 3D printers, might have a blocked or even broken hotend.

As a result, in the event of a crisis, it is suggested that one obtain a replacement good-quality hotend, which will avoid these issues.

The ANYCUBIC Hotend Extruder 1.75 mm* is a wonderful alternative here, since it fits precisely on the Anycubic Mega S. The cables are securely secured and protected with tubes on this hotend, ensuring that it operates dependably for a long period.

One can also get great prints of stunning quality from the Mega S with the E3D V6 hotend upgrade!

Alternative to the Standard Hotend

Besides the hotend, this upgrade contains 3D printed components that allow users to fix the new hotend.

While retaining the remaining standard parts.

For the Hotend:

The bundle comes with a Bowden attachment for supporting the tube link with the hotend.

There is also a left-cover for attaching the standard cooling fan.

An adapter ring is included in the kit to guarantee that the nozzle is in sync with the level of the original.

$15.99 In Stock. The Anycubic i3 Mega update is quite easy to install, yet one needs to write a few simple lines of G-Code.

Its developer has created a step-by-step YouTube video for this purpose.

The standard fit filament spool holder is not good enough.

For the Housing:

Get a better one that fits well with the holder for the filament sensor.

The spool holder should be sturdy and not bend too much.

One can couple it with a cylinder for smoother operation.

Remove the filament guide if needed and insert the spool holder on the printer’s right side.

Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (40x10mm, Brown) (Personal Computers)

Screw it to the base right down from the two screws on the top.

Push the pipe from the standard spool holder onto the filament holder.

Make sure to fix the smaller plug on the right and the bigger on the left.

Details on this is available at Users can not only run the Mega S straight on the device, but also quickly download a program of their choice to make it easier.

Sinks for the Stepper Motor

Face Plate Stability

This allows users to control the 3D printer from your PC through an online interface.

OctoPrint is a decent alternative for this. Users can change the settings of your printing process with this software.

This is done quite easier and more elaborate than on the printer, thanks to an eloquent online interface.

OctoPrint can supervise and record the printing from the Mega S if the printer is connected to a web camera.

Upgrading the Hotend

If requested, the software can even send users an email notification when a printing procedure is complete.

OctoPrint users may also use a variety of different functionalities, known as plug-ins.

Cura, a popular slicing application, is one of them. Users may operate this software to create their own 3D items.

OctoPrint is free for individuals, although premium versions with more capabilities are available. Wi-Fi is not available by default on the Anycubic Mega S.

Better Spool Holder

Users can purchase a Raspberry Pi, a small, low-cost single-board computer. They can then use OctoPrint’s features effortlessly and regardless of location using a WLAN network.

Besides OctoPrint, there are other alternative, web-based software applications such as the Repetier Server and Polar Cloud. These applications help in operating multiple printers simultaneously.

Swappable Drivers

Lighting of the printing area is a non-essential but very nice improvement for any 3D printer. This ensures that one always has a wonderful view of the final prints, regardless of the room’s lighting.

Allow light to shine! Install the ingenious backlight holder for the i3 Mega created by Andrey Fedotov from Myminifactory.

Solderd Drivers

This addition will help maintain a constant check on the 3D printing area. It’s essentially a 3D printable structure with a line of LED bulbs within.

The lighting frame is attached to the clamping frame, which is also built using a 3D printer.

Swapping Drivers

This update is built to keep LED bulb strips with a maximum width of 12 mm and a length of 120 mm or 157.5 mm.

There are inexpensive LED bulb strips with a maximum brightness of 15 lumen.

They are simple to insert on the 3D printed frame. Trim them to the proper length, then use the glue strip on the backside to stick them on the lighting frame.

Power up the LED bulb strip by connecting it to the power supply unit as the final step to complete the i3 Mega upgrade.

The Anycubic Mega S has an excellent hotplate with first-rate adhesion thanks to the Ultrabase.

The Ultrabase must be very clean for the correct functioning of the print and neater print results.

Clear the plate with a clean cloth sponged in isopropanol before each print.

It’s worth noting that acetone isn’t included because it would ruin the print bed.


There are also several templates for what is defined as bed handles. These are used so that one does not burn their fingers when withdrawing the print bed to separate the print output.

The print bed can be simply withdrawn from the printer using these little holders without risking fingers getting burned.

Investing in insulating mats can be quite useful.

One can cut these to size and place them on the printer. The mats’ aim is to shorten the time for heating and maintain a consistent print bed temperature.

Furthermore, by using insulation mats, one can save power and even minimize noise, as the scraping of the nozzle is muted.

My Voltage:
  • One can get several cable coverings and holders to ensure that the cables of the Anycubic Mega S 3D printer endure as long as possible and do not break.
  • One can either purchase them or print them using the Mega S printer.
  • Secure enclosures are particularly useful for protecting the complete printer from dirt and dust.
  • One can use these covers to protect the printer if not being used for an extended period of time.
  • $17.99 In Stock.

This position can affect the printing result depending on the surface the 3D printer is placed. One can print a FacePlate to provide a strong and stable support for your Anycubic Mega S.

These foundations are extremely simple to create with a 3D printer.


One can also make their own feet for the printer, such as the Low Profile Squash Feet that soaks and minimizes vibration.

As the couplings for the Z-axes are sturdy, the Z-axis of the Mega S drifts a little based on the force applied on some devices.

There are some useful modifications for the 3D printer here to help stabilize the axis.

The AFUNTA couplings, for example, are more flexible than ordinary couplings.

As one has to unscrew the motors from above and then replace the couplings, the setup of these couplings is a little more difficult.

On a 3D printer, the precise configuration for the filament throughput, or flows, can be tedious and time-consuming.

New Fan for the main board


This is the result of too many or too few filaments being frequently fed into the extruder as default.

Often, even with the slicer’s settings, this flow cannot be controlled effectively.

This can result in unsatisfactory printing results. However, by adjusting the extender settings, this can be avoided.

Only a caliper, a tape measure, and a folding rule are needed for calibrating the Mega S.

The OctoPrint software is the simplest way to calibrate. Users can also connect the printer to their computer using the USB port.

Using a handy filament feeder knob, one can simplify 3D printing. To manually input filament through there, attach the knob to the stepper motor.

In the end, this simple yet clever i3 Mega upgrade will make one’s work life with this printer much easier.


The filament support for the i3 Mega is constructed of durable acrylic.

This standard support structure needs to work in tandem with a 3D printer.

If one prefers to keep their system tidy and small, this alternative one created by created by Yoyi_Cuesta.

This is downloadable from

It’s a filament support that can be attached to the frame’s top.

Filament Control and Calibration

The designer advises printing this Anycubic i3 Mega upgrade at a fill rate of 30%, at 200°C, and with a heated bed at 60°C.

  • The Mega S is the sequel to the i3 Mega, which is one of the most well-known 3D printer manufacturers in China.
  • In most aspects, such as volume, design, and nozzle diameter, the Mega S is very similar to its predecessor.
  • Unlike the i3 Mega, however, the Mega S is capable of printing with more adaptable filaments like TPU.
  • This is owing to the extender’s continued development.
  • There is also a coil holder on the Mega S right side.
  • The Anycubic Mega S and the i3 Mega are so alike.

Thus all the upgrades available for the preceding model can be installed and utilized on the Mega S as well.

Yet, because of the Mega S’s further improvement, such as an upgraded extruder, one can skip some of the upgrades that are available for the i3 Mega.

But I will also do some simple explanation.

If you use still your stock driver take this version:

When you have the TMC2208 V2.0 take this version:

With any other (like TMC2208 V1.2) take this version:

To do the update, you now have to connect the printer to your pc.

Now, just open Cura, and go to Setting -> Printer -> Manage Printer -> and update firmware

Now select the right .hex and update it.

Feeder Knob

First, you will need to download Pronterface:

Just start it up and connect it with your printer via usb cable.

Connection with MacPronterface Printrun software on Mac is via /dev/cu.SLAB_USBtoUART and is 250000

If the field under extrusion is red and you can´t write the extrusion length in it like it is on the picture below,
than follow try this steps: Printrun Pronterface Fix

Now on the printer, remove the plug or fitting on the extruder in which the filament tube is inserted.

Than cut the filament at the top of the extruder so you can measure the length later.

Now in Pronterface:

Write in the space right: ” M503 “and send it.

Should look like this:

Now search the “ M92 X80.00 …. “ line and note the values : E xx.xx

For example, mine: E92.60

At the left fill in at length:100mm at the speed 100mm/min

Than extrude 100mm filament

Now measure the length:

I measured: 96.56

Now calculate:

For me:

100/96.56*92.60 = 95.90

Than copy the “ M92 X80.00 …. “ line and change the E to your calculated E.

My Line would look like this:

Copy your own line than into the field and send it

Than type M500 and also send it.

Now you should be finished!

Print Bed Upgrades

Some spare parts which are special for the Anycubic Mega:

[Original]Anycubic I3 Mega 3D Printer Extruder Print Head

Just wanted to say thank you to this amazing community.

To everyone, who also built anything to make this printer better.

To everyone, who is helping others.

And especially to these people, which helped me at the beginning.

(*) This all was a lot of work, so I decided to make all my Amazon links, which I would have included anyway, to affiliate links.
There are not any costs for you. But when you buy with my link, I earn a bit.

Also if you want to donate you can do this here: