Anycubic I3 Mega S Original Firmware

Posted on  by admin

With this, I want to sum up all basic upgrades, mods, some suggestions and more.

I have made a little test print you can try to print.

You can download it HERE.

This Guide includes:

  • some basics, mods and upgrades for the bed
  • some suggestions for the hotend (cover, silent fan, better cooling)
  • new spool holder and better management of the filament
  • some design advancements
  • vibration dampers
  • making the printer completely silent (fans, new motor drives)
  • some useful tips for a firmware upgrade

Table of Content


You can find everything about Slicer Here.


So first, everything you really need, or which is easy to do.


The Ultrabase is the best bed, I ever have used. But it must be clean!

So please keep it clean!

Before every print, I would suggest, that you clean it. Just take some isopropanoland give it a wipe with a towel.

You can also use nail polish remover as long as it is NOT ACETON!


Then, you really must level the bed perfectly. Do it as long, as it is perfect (at least for you). I really had problems with my front right corner, because when I loosen it, the rear left goes down and vice versa. Also, my bed is also not perfectly flat, but it works. You maybe have to change the screw wich hits the end stops.

Bed handle​

One more thing for the bed, a little bed handle so you don’t burn your fingers:
You can use this or this.


With this you can tension your printbed belt: Y-Tensioner

Bed isolation

The bed has no isolation, further a lot of heat is lost and the heating takes longer. Therefore, you can install aisolation.

Hot End


So first, I made a new Cover with bigger (Honeycomb Style) holes, for a better airflow: Hotend Cover

For this cover, I would recommend that you change the right fan for a silent one like the Noctua NF A4x10.

The left turbo fan is quite good. Altough it is very loud, I would keep it.

Part Cooling Fan Duct

There are several designs for fan ducts. I would say they really help, and I also use one.

A really big advantage is, that they provide cooling from both sides.

I use this Part Cooling Fan Duct.

Covers and cable management

This is just a little cover for the cables, doesn’t do much, but it protects the cables. cable holder

When you print high objects, the cable may get squeezed at the top.

To prevent this, you can use a cable guide.

For this, you must cut the old cable ties and put new cable ties on it.

You could also use this little Cover.

Or you print a Cable chain.


Buy whatever Filament you like. The most are even from the same manufacturer, but with another brand name on it.
I can recommend: Amazon Basic, Eryone, Geetech, 3D Jake …

Filament Spool Holder

(You don´t need this for the new Anycubic S Pro (Mega S)

Basically, the original filament spool holder is crap.

I remixed one from philwild. Mine fits perfectly together with the thing I will talk about next.

This is my filament spool holder: Filament Spool Holder

Filament Sensor Holder

(You don´t need this for the new Anycubic S Pro (Mega S)

I really had some Problems with the original magnetic ball thing. It always fell off, then I tried some other holder which leaded to filament breaking. So I designed my own.

With this holder, the Motor is mounted at an angle, so the filament doesn’t bend as much. Furthermore, the angle to the Spool holder is much better.

This is my Sensor Holder: Sensor Holder

However, you can also just disconnect the sensor.


This is just a nice tool rig. You can put all your tools in. Nothing more to add.

And a holder for your caliper:

Face Plate

This will really let your printer be the best out of all. Ok, no. It’s just for aesthetics.

So I want to list here 2 different Face Plates.

On my printer, I use this one:FacePlate

The white under this plate is just paper or any other material. Can be any color.

The other one:FacePlate


The printer can sometimes vibrate very much.

The simple way: Just put some foam (when you order something, you will get some for sure) under the feet. It will help some, but not for long. But I still use it (I just order enough).

Nevertheless, you can print this: Squash Feet

These ones are not as high. (with my guide, you don’t need to mount the power supply fan outside, so the printer doesn’t need so much space beneath it.)

For this vibration dampers you need 4x Squash Balls.


Ok, so there are basically 2 variations.

Lightning on the hotend, or lightning on the housing.

For the Hotend:

A ring lightning which directly lights the printed part:Ring LED Holder

A compatible led would be thisLED Ring 80mm.

Important! If you also have the fan duct installed, you need to print this one: ​Ring LED Holder 100mm

Furthermore you´ll need to buy the bigger LEDRing100mm.

Or you just glue some led´s into the cover. You need some 12V LED.

To install any leds, just connect it to the right fan cables.

For the Housing:

A led stripe around the printer.

To mount it print this: LED Mount

And a led strip.

You can cut the strip and just connect it to the powersupply.


Ok, so you have done all above, but want your printer to be even better?

What about that loud sound’s you printer does? Do you have some Z wobbling?

OK, then make your Anycubic silent.

At this step, you have to open the bottom plate of the printer. Please turn the power off and unplug the cable!

Silent Printer

Power Supply Cover and Fan

One of the loudest fans on this printer is the PSU fan.

I got inspired from some other designs, and designed my own PSU cover.

On the one side, the power supply gets much more air, on the other side, it is much quieter with it.

You can find my blog post about it here:

Motor Driver Fan duct and Fan

Ok, next on the list is the fan next to the power supply.

​For this, I would recommend printing this fan duct: Fan Duct

Again, you also need a new, not as noisy fan. You need a 40mm x 10mm fan.

For fan installation, use the included orange plastic things to tighten them to the cover or fanduct. They reduce the vibrations a lot.

Motor Driver

When all your fans are quiet, there is still one sound. It’s a very high-pitched annoying sound.

But first check, if you even can swap your driver. On some, they are soldered on. On others not. It depends when and where you bought the printer. For this, you have to open your printer.

Swappable Drivers

The drivers are the small black boards with the silver heatsink on it. On the one, you can see that you can take it of and swap them. You can also see the black plastic mount below.

So if you have the swappable drivers you can go on.

Solderd Drivers

The 32bit Trigorilla board has soldered drivers. They are directly on the big board. When it looks like the picture above, you can´t swap your drivers (At least not without soldering).

If you have this board you could buy a new 16 bit Trigorilla board.

Swapping Drivers

You will need 5x TMC 2208: (for: X, Y, Z, E0 (Extruder), E1 (second Z)

There are some different versions on the market.

If you can find some, which are called V2.0 you just can swap then out.

Also, when you get them, check again if they are really V2.0

If you don´t find any, or got delivered others, you have to flash a new firmware.

Be sure, to then take the right hex file (Marlin-AI3M-vx.x.x-TMC2208.hex).

You can find more to this under the section Firmware.

I recommend these TMC2208.


Look at the marks on the board and on the driver, don´t put it in in the false direction.

When you install it, you must also check the voltage and probably change it.

For this you will need a mutlimeter.

There is no universal Vref. Its different for everyone. You will need to test it for your printer.

But at least, stay between 0,8 and 1,4 V.

My Voltage:
  • ​X driver = 1,15V
  • Y = 1,15V
  • Z (Z1) = 1,15V
  • E0 (Extruder) = 1,25V
  • E1 (second Z) = 1,15V

You can measure the voltage on the upper right hole (or on the screw, but you must turn this to change the voltage) on the driver and on the Ground GND.

Now just put the fan duct back on.


Now just test all axis. They should all work.

If not, open the printer again, and check if any driver is very hot (nearly burn your fingers). If yes, this driver is maybe broken.

If no one is too hot, check the voltage again. Than check the cables if every is plugged in correctly.

If it still don´t work just comment..

Also test printing a part.

When you get shifting layers or under extrusion, you have to increase the voltage a bit (in 0,05V or 0,1V steps).



Maybe you have noticed it, maybe not. But the clutches for the Z-Axis are very stiff.

Therefore I changed them with better coulings.

These ones are much more flexible and will eliminate any Z-Wobbling.

But the installation is kinda pain.

You must unscrew the motors from the top, and then put the clutch out. ​

When you have the opportunity, you should take the screw drive out, and clean it (You will never do it again).

After cleaning, put a some oil or lubricant on it again.


Personally, I didn´t install it.

But there is a slight chance, that the motherboard could get to hot on very long prints.

Furthermore, it could than be destroyed.

You can print this Mosfet Holder: Mosfet Holder ; He also explains how to mount it.

And then buy two 2 pieces of a mosfet.


The features of a new firmware:

  • No more annoying sound at the start.
  • PID Control
  • 12V at fan
  • Better print quality
  • Thermal runaway protection
  • mesh bed leveling

This guy did a really good job. He also describes everything very good: Firmware Upgrade

Please also read his explanation carefully!

But I will also do some simple explanation.

If you use still your stock driver take this version:

When you have the TMC2208 V2.0 take this version:

With any other (like TMC2208 V1.2) take this version:

To do the update, you now have to connect the printer to your pc.

Now, just open Cura, and go to Setting -> Printer -> Manage Printer -> and update firmware

Now select the right .hex and update it.

Calibration of the Extruder

First, you will need to download Pronterface:

Just start it up and connect it with your printer via usb cable.

Connection with MacPronterface Printrun software on Mac is via /dev/cu.SLAB_USBtoUART and is 250000

If the field under extrusion is red and you can´t write the extrusion length in it like it is on the picture below,
than follow try this steps: Printrun Pronterface Fix

Now on the printer, remove the plug or fitting on the extruder in which the filament tube is inserted.

Than cut the filament at the top of the extruder so you can measure the length later.

Now in Pronterface:

Write in the space right: ” M503 “and send it.

Should look like this:

Now search the “ M92 X80.00 …. “ line and note the values : E xx.xx

For example, mine: E92.60

At the left fill in at length:100mm at the speed 100mm/min

Than extrude 100mm filament

Now measure the length:

I measured: 96.56

Now calculate:

For me:

100/96.56*92.60 = 95.90

Than copy the “ M92 X80.00 …. “ line and change the E to your calculated E.

My Line would look like this:

Copy your own line than into the field and send it

Than type M500 and also send it.

Now you should be finished!

List of Spare Parts

Some spare parts which are special for the Anycubic Mega:

Thank you!

Just wanted to say thank you to this amazing community.

To everyone, who also built anything to make this printer better.

To everyone, who is helping others.

And especially to these people, which helped me at the beginning.

(*) This all was a lot of work, so I decided to make all my Amazon links, which I would have included anyway, to affiliate links.
There are not any costs for you. But when you buy with my link, I earn a bit.

Also if you want to donate you can do this here: