Anycubic Mega Pro Manual

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Pros and Cons

This is Top 3D Blog with another informative addition on the rapidly changing world of FDM 3D printing.

In this article, we are going to review the Anycubic Mega Pro, a powerful and affordable 2-in-1 solution that can operate both as a 3D printer and a laser engraver.

As always, we’ll provide you with a thorough description of the device, highlight its pros and cons, and show some of the use cases.
Let’s dive right in. Source: anycubic.com. Anycubic is a Shenzhen-based additive manufacturing company that was founded in 2015 by two childhood friends that decided to give their ambitious 3D printing startup idea a go.
As a result, the company has been recognized as one of the largest and most successful Chinese manufacturers that had ever entered the global additive manufacturing market.
Trusted by hundreds of thousands of users worldwide, the company’s workflow is powered by more than two hundred employees that specialize in the production of 3D printing equipment and the integration of cutting-edge solutions.
Source: anycubic.com. The most important feature of the Anycubic Mega Pro is its powerful 1.5W laser engraving head.
Replace your standard print head with a laser engraving one and turn your 3D printer into a laser engraver that can easily engrave on wood, paper, fabric, textiles, and leather.
Creating an affordable 2-in-1 machine was an incredibly smart move since the current additive manufacturing market offers a dozen multifunctional 3-in-1 devices that combine a 3D printer, a laser engraver, and a CNC milling machine.
Unlike the Mega Pro, such machines come at a rather hefty price tag and oftentimes offer an inferior build volume.
Source: anycubic.com. Just like its predecessors, the Anycubic Mega Pro offers everything required for a smooth printing experience, namely:.
Reliable all-metal frame;. State-of-the-art print bed;.
Solid build volume;. Filament run-out sensor. Aside from the above-mentioned features, the device offers a plethora of improvements, such as:.
Laser engraving head. Source: anycubic.com.
Equip the print head with the laser engraving module, connect it to the corresponding socket, and voila, your 3D printer is now a laser engraver.
Double gear extruder. Source: anycubic.com. The Mega Pro has been equipped with a Bondtech dual drive extruder offering improved torque and optimized path orientation for a more precise and consistent 3D printing without filament slips.
Multi-color 3D printing. Source: anycubic.com. Not your typical multi-color printing per se, the machine allows you to stop printing at a specific layer, manually replace the filament during the pause, and proceed to print with another color.
You can pause the device for filament replacement up to 6 times in a single printing session.
TMC2208 stepper motor drivers. Equipped with high-quality TMC2208 stepper motor drivers, the Anycubic Mega Pro boasts improved printing accuracy and ultra-quiet operation.
Upgraded leveling knobs. Source: anycubic.com. Another great improvement that the community has been asking for are the upgraded leveling knobs.
Twice increased in size for easier access and smoother calibration, the knobs also offer a tighter locking system that ensures additional reliability during leveling.
Assisted bed leveling . Source: anycubic.com. The printer's newly-introduced smart calibration system locates all the necessary leveling points and assists the user during the calibration process.
Source: youtube.com. Technology: FDM. Build volume: 210 × 210 × 205 mm (8.3 x 8.3 x 8.1 in). Layer thickness: 0.05-0.3 mm.
Printing speed: up to 100 mm/s (60 mm/s recommended). Positioning accuracy: X/Y — 0.0125 mm; Z — 0.002 m.
Extruder quantity: 1. Nozzle diameter: 0,4 mm. Printable materials: PLA, TPU etc. Operating temperature: 8–40 °C.
extruder temperature: 260 °C (500 °F). Compatible file formats: .STL, .OBJ, .DAE, .AMF. Connectivity: SD card, USB.
Filament run-out sensor: Yes. Resume power after power outage: Yes (only if printing via SD card).
Power requirements: 110-220 V, 50/60 Hz. Outer dimensions: 405 x 410 x 453 mm (16 x 16.1 x 17.8 in).
Weight: 15 kg (33 lbs). Laser engraver specifications:. Image format: BMP. Engraving size: 220 × 140 mm. Engraving mode: Bitmap.
Rated power: 1.5W. Pixel size: 0.05–0.4 mm (0.1 mm recommended). Recommended laser intensity: Brown paper - 15%;Wood - 25%.
Laser height: 1–100 mm (50mm recommended). Engraving surface: leather, paper, wood, fabric. Source: youtube.com.
Anycubic Mega Pro 3D Printer;. Laser engraving head;. Protective glasses;. USB flash drive;. Leveling module;.
M5 screws (8 pcs).
Source: youtube.com. An all-rounder: a laser engraver and a 3D printer.
Improved extruder. Decent build and engraving volume.
Improved stability. Sturdy all-metal frame.
Hassle-free calibration.
Built-in touchscreen for effortless standalone operation.
Ultra-quiet printing. Automatic calibration with BLTouch probe.
Multi-color printing.
Affordable and upgradable. Unheated print bed.
Relatively low extruder temperature. Source: bhphotovideo.com.
CNC Milling Machine. Build volume, mm.
210 × 210 × 205.
125 × 125 × 125.
extruder temperature, °C. print bed temperature, °C. layer thickness, microns.
Engraving area, mm. As you can see, the Snapmaker comes at a more expensive price.
Compared to the Anycubic Mega Pro, it offers inferior build volume and engraving area.
On the other hand, it features a heated bed for wider material compatibility and can be employed for carving thanks to being equipped with a CNC milling head.
Both options have their pros and cons and should be picked depending on your requirements.
In case you are unsure which machine would be the best choice for your particular application, please feel free to contact our team for quality advice and support.
Source: medium.com. Ultimaker Cura is a free slicing software trusted by more than a million users worldwide.
The Anycubic Mega Pro comes with a pre-installed Cura profile with optimal settings that guarantee the best performance with this particular device, allowing you to proceed to 3D printing as soon as possible.
Source: youtube.com. Source: anycubic.com. Source: youtube.com.
All in all, the Anycubic Mega Pro comes at an outstandingly affordable price considering its functionality.
Placed between cheap 3D printers and hefty multifunctional machines, the device doesn’t seem to have many competitors in its niche at the time of writing the article.
Besides, the Mega Pro’s laser engraving module has increased the machine’s dependability and enlarged the list of applications it can be employed in.
With such a device, you can create unique artworks, prototypes, household items, props, and much more.
You can purchase the Anycubic Mega Pro from Top 3D Shop. This multipurpose device comes at a very affordable price and lets you work on both 3D printing and laser engraving projects.
Our team will make sure to provide the best service possible, just like we always do.
coordinates for X/Y/Z axis ⑧Return to previous menu)
Speed: Enter the menu to adjust ①Fan speed (0-100) ②Print Rate (50-999)
Tools
Home: ①Home X ②Home Y ③Home Z ④Home All ⑤Return (only valid when machine is not
Axis: ①Home all axis ②Move X/Y/Z axis by 0.1/1/10 ③Speed mode for axis move
Low/Medium/High (only valid when machine is not printing)
Preheat: ①Preheat PLA ②Preheat ABS (only valid when machine is not printing)
Cooling: Cut off the power of hotend and heated bed (only valid when machine is not printing)
Filament: ①Filament In ②Filament Remove (will automatically heating to 200°C for filament in
Reset: Popup window to decide if reboot the mainboard
TP: Touch panel alignment(click on the cue points)
Info: Information about the product
ANYcUBIC 3D printer
Step 1.Unpack and take out the printer and accessories.
Wear gloves because the smooth rods and lead screw may be greased in factory.
Step 2.Follow ①②③in Fig. 1. Carefully lift the base to fit into the frame and fix them by
8 pieces of M5*8mm hex cap screws. The screw locations are indicated by red
squares in ③. The screws can be installed in diagonal order and can be tightened
(1) Fig.2, select the correct voltage mode according to your local voltage ratings
(110V/220V). The switch is inside the bottom left of the base and 220V is default.
Allan keys can be used to move the switch inside.
(2) There are 3 ports with different color (Red/Green/Black) at the bottom right side of
the base, and there are 3 different color cable connectors respectively. Accordingly,
insert those connectors to the ports by the same color, as shown in Fig. 3.
> Make sure the connectors are well inserted, and no pins are bent inside.
> Wrong or loose connection would lead to malfunction of the machine.
(3) Fig. 4, customers may notice there is a ring of zip tie attached just below the plastic
Only cut this zip tie when swapping or repairing the hotend.
(1) Assemble the spool holder as shown in Fig. 5, and tighten 4 pairs of screw and nuts
at the lower 4 corner. (Customers may firstly peel off the protective cover on the
(Figure 5)
Do not cut
(2) As shownin Fig.6, manuallyinstall the filament spool to the spool holder. Pass the
filament through the filament sensor. Insert the filament into the extruder and Teflon
tubing, but do not fully reach it into the hotend (until preheat the hotend later).
> Only insert filament into the hotend after “Preheat” it later.
> It is suggested to cut off the bent tip of the filament, and rotate the filament if
> It is important to make sure there is no tied or tangle on the spool.
filament sensor on by magnets
It is essential to level the platform for 3D printer. Please follow procedures below:
Step 1.Check and ensure all wirings are OK. Connect the machine to the power outlet
Step 2.As shown in Fig. 7, on Home Menu, click “Tools”-->“Home”-->“Home
Step 3.As shown in Fig. 8, return to the “Home Menu”, click “Setup”-->“Motor”to
disable the motors so the motors/axis could be moved freely.
(Figure 8)
Step 4.Put a piece of paper onto the print platform, and then manually move the print head
and platform back and forth to let the print head travel to the 4 corners and center
one by one (①→②→③→④→⑤), asshown in Fig.9. (Avoid nozzle rub against the
(Figure 9)
Step 5. When nozzle hasbeen moved to corner ①, manually adjust (tighten or loose) the
The purpose is to adjust the distance between nozzle and print platform to about
a piece of paper thin (~0.1-0.2mm). Therefore, when just feel the drag resistance as
pulling the paper, it means good leveling for this particular corner.
(Note: “just feel the drag resistance” means the paper can be moved, but with resistance)
Please do so to the rest of corners and center area. Perform double check to ensure
the results, and check the corners in diagonal order: ①→③, ②→④.
Step 6.Ideally, after the 4 corners are leveled, the center should be spontaneously leveled,
and you may proceed to do a test print on the platform. (see details in Step 7)
However, please be mindful that in some cases, the platform may not be perfectly
flat (concave or convex) due to many factors in manufacture and usage.
ANYCUBIC promise that the flatness of the print platform is in the range of 0~0.2mm
variation, means every piece of the platforms has been tested by a 0.2mm feeler
gauge (**both sides of the platform have been respectively laid on a flat marble table and
the 0.2mm feeler gauge could not be inserted in-between the platform and marble table).
There will be more details for the fine adjustment of the leveling in Step 8.
Step 7. Test print: insert the SD card (back side facing up) into the SD card slot at the base.
Click on the Home Menu “Print” to enter the file list (Fig. 10). There is a printable
test file included --“owl_pair” (author: etotheipi, www.thingiverse.com).
(Figure 10)
Single click on “owl_pair”, and click “Print”. The machine will be automatically
Now, as the temperature rises, please manually insert the filament through
the Teflon tubing all the way into the hotend. (Refer to previous Fig.6)
The filament should flow through when temperature reaching to over
~180-190°C, otherwise the filament has not been inserted properly.
Customers may use tweezers to carefully remove the extruded filament at the
Step 8.There might be 3 kinds of results for the first layer of the test prints (Fig. 11).
(Figure 11)
In case of “nozzle too close”or “nozzle too high”(Fig. 11 A or C), please click
“Stop”on the screen, raise the nozzle (click “Tools”-->“Axis”-->“10”on +Z
column), and manually fine tune the corresponding nuts under the platform.
Particularly, when “nozzle too high”slowly loosen the corresponding nuts
underneath the platform by half circle, while “nozzle too close”,slowly tighten
the corresponding nuts underneath by half circle. After that, clean the platform with
It may need adjustment for few times until satisfying results such asFig. 11 B.
In some rare cases, after “Home All”, the nozzle can be still much lower than the
platform, even after fully tighten the 4 nuts underneath. On the opposite, sometimes the
nozzle is still too high from the platform, even after fully loosen the 4 nuts underneath.
(1) Raise the nozzle by click “Tools”-->“Axis”-->“10”on +Z column, adjust the
4 nuts under the platform, let the height in-between the support plate and the
(2) As shown in Fig. 13, at both ends of X axis, there is a Z adjustable nut. The lower
tip of Z adjustable nut can trigger the Z end stop when Home (going down), and
‘tell’ the machine Z axis is getting to zero and stop moving.
(3) Therefore, tighten Z adjustable nut by
mm if nozzle is lower than the platform
X
is defined by how much the nozzle is under the platform), while loosen it by
mm if
Y
platform). It may need adjustment for few times.
(4) Click “Tools”-->“Home”-->“Home all”to verify the results. After this, please
There are two operation mode for ANYCUBIC Mega 3D printer, print offline (via SD card)
and print online (controlled by PC via USB). Print offline: After leveling the platform,
insert SD card, click “Print” at the Home menu and select a file (gcode file) to print.
Print online: Install CP2102 driver to bridging PC and machine, and install Cura to
Generally, it is suggested to use Print offline to minimize the noisy signal via USB. The
preparation steps for Print Online are shown as below.
ANYCUBIC Mega3D printer uses CP2102 chip for communication. So, it is necessary to
install CP2102 driver so the printer could be recognized by PC.
Firstly, power on the machine and connect it to PC via USB cable.
CP2102 driver is copied in the SD card. “Files_Engish_Mega”--->
“Driver_CP2102”. There are two versions, Windows and Mac version.
For Windows, specifically, “CP210xVCPInstaller_x64”is for 64 bit system and
Here we take Windows 7-64 bit PC system for example, while there is
“Installation for Mac PC” in SD card for those who use Mac system.
On PC, right click on “Computer”--->“Properties”---->“Device Manger”, and
After successfully installation, a COM
would appear in the Ports of Device Manager,
is
random (as here is COM3), customers will have their own COMx depends on their PC.
This COMx port will be used for communication between the printer and PC later.
choose update
of CP2102
\Desktop\Mega\ Files_Engish_Mega\Driver_CP2102\win
Ports
If the PC has been installed CP2102 driver before, then there should be a COMxin
Sometimes, even the driver is not installed properly, it may still show an abnormal
x
x
5.2 Cura Installation
ANYCUBICMega 3D printer reads Gcode file and prints. It is necessary to convert 3D files
(such as stl file) into Gcode files for machine to recognize. Software that convert 3D files
into Gcode files is called slicing software. Cura_15.04.6 is used for example here.
Location of Cura: SD card--->“Files_Engish_Mega”--->“Cura”--->“Windows”.
Double click “Cura_15.04.6”, and follow the procedures as shown in Fig. 16:
Next, before start Cura for the first time, there will be more settings about the language
(Figure 17)
Upon finish, open Cura for the first time, there might be a default robot model appears,
customers may click “File”--->“Clear platform”to delete it.
(1) Clear the platform by clicking “File”--->“Clear platform”
(2) Load 3D files onto the platform by “File”--->“Load model file…”. Files with extension
such as “STL”, “OBJ”, “DAE” and “AMF” can be loaded.
Model in grey means it is outside of the printable area and needs to be moved or scaled to fit in.
(1) Zoom in/out: scroll the mouse wheel
(2) Change viewing angle: right click the model, hold on and move the mouse
(3) Position change: left click on the model, hold on and drag the model to move.
(4) Rotate: single left click on the model and several icons will appear at the bottom left
of the window (Fig. 18). Click the rotate button, 3 circles will surround the model. Rotate
Lay flat: it is very impartant to ensure the flat portion of the model is well
attached to the platform. So, please use Lay Flat option everytime after rotating
the model, as it will minimize the adhesion issues during printing. (Fig. 18)
Reset: click it to return the model to the original orientation.
(Figure 18)
(5) Scale: to uniformly scale the model along X/Y/Z dimensions. To disable uniform
scaling, click the lock in the lower section of the scaling window. (Fig. 19)
(Figure 19)
(6) View mode (Fig. 20): to view the model in different ways and helps to spotting issues
before print starts. Such as “Layers” mode: to view the toolpath of the print head to
(1) Machine settings
Refer to Fig. 21, click “Machine”--->“Machine settings” to input those suggested
parameters into the corresponding column. Please choose the Serial Port (COM) as
shown in your PC→Device Manager→Port (refer to Fig. 15 ⑥, customers may have a
x
other than the example COM3), and set the Baudrate to 250000. Those
two parameters are essential for Cura to connect to the printer.
(Figure 21)
Suggested “Basic” and “Advanced” setting are shown in Fig. 22. Stay the mouse
upon each box and there will be explanation for it.
Those parameters are suggested for ANYCUBIC Mega 3D printer to print ANYCUBIC PLA
filament. Generally, those settings are also compatible with other brand of PLA, but
customers may need to fine tune the parameters to get the best results, for example,
customers could try different ‘printing temperature’ based on the suggestion from a
particular filament supplier. Especially, in order to get a good adhesion for the first layer,
the ‘Bottom layer speed’ should not be too fast (20mm/s suggested).
(Figure 22)
*It is recommended for new user to leave the plugins as default (i.e. no plugins enabled).
Plugins are custom settings which will active at specific point during printing. There are
two pre-loaded plugins with Cura: Pause at height and Tweak At Z. More plugins can be
found via: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Category:CuraPlugin
As shown in Fig. 23, to enable one of the plugins, such as Pause at height, first click it
and then click the drop-down arrow to enter the setting interface.
“Pause at height”will allow the printing to pause at a specified height, as well as
where the print head would move to and how much filament to retract to prevent
extruded filament blobs. So, customers could do filament change during printing.
“Tweak at Z”would allow custom changes at specified Z height. Customers may
decide the Z height or layer counts at which to make a change. Then there are more
settings for how you would like to change, such astemperature, fan speed andprint
speed. Fine tune those for specific model would produce better results.
If wish to delete the plugins, stay mouse at the edge, hold the left button and drag
(4) Start/End-GCode
As shown in Fig. 24, custom Gcode allows for complex automatic printer movements
and operations. By adding custom Gcode into the start or end of the Gcode file,
customer could change how it prints. A detailed list of Gcode commands can be found
There will be explanation later about how to add command to start-gcode to achieve
to show the delete button
(Figure 24)
After parameter settings, customer can print online by Cura with USB connection.
Click “File”--->“Print…” enter the printing popup window (Fig. 25).(If a simplified
version of printing window appears, please click “File” --->“Preferences…” to choose the
‘Pronterface UI’ in the “Printing window type” drop-down menu)
Click “Print” icon when it is available after auto connect with the printer. Then the
temperature would rise and it will start to print when reaching to the target temperature.
Use tweezers to carefully get rid of the pre-extruded filament.
Note: If it fails to connect the printer in the popup “Printing window” (in a case that the
“Print” icon is gray and unavailable), check with the COMx or Baudrate in “Machine
settings”, and re-open the printing window to proceed.
(Figure 25)
In Cura, click “File”--->“Save GCode…” to save the file to a desired directory. And it
is highly recommended to save the Gcode in a SD card for printing offline.
Re-open the Gcode file again in Cura to confirm that all slices of the model have
been included by check it in the “Layers view” (refer to previous Fig. 20).
The file name should only contain English letters, underscore and space. File
name contains special characters could not be recognized by the printer.
Here shows the steps of printing offline (via SD card), print online please refer to 5.2.4.
1.Click “Tools”-->“Preheat”-->“Preheat PLA (for example)”, Fig. 26.
2.After the pre-heat is finished, please click on Home screen “Tools”-->“Filament”-->
“Filament in”(Fig. 27). The extruder motor will start to feed the filament into the
hotend. There might be some excessive filament melt through the nozzle at high
temperature, use tweezers to carefully remove it from the nozzle tip before print.
3.Insert the SD card into the SD card slot at the base. On Home Menu, Click “Print” to
enter the files list. Click a exist file (e.g. “owl_pair”), and click “Print”(Fig. 28). The
machine will be sequentially heating the heated bed and nozzle and then print.
4.Upon finishing, the print head and heated bed will be automatically cooling down. Only
remove the printed object from the heated bed when it is cooled completely. Pull the
print platform to the front side, and use scraper to carefully remove the object as shown
Please be mindful that the nozzle and heated bed are still hot after operation.
(Figure 29)
5. ANYCUBIC Mega3D printer equipped with ANYCUBIC Ultra-base (a novel print platform)
which could be used for very long time without adding any masking tape, “hair spray”
or glue stick. Customers only have to clean it by alcohol or similar after every few prints.
Suggested nozzle (print) temperature for PLA: 190-210°C, ABS: 230-240°C,
Bed temperature for PLA: 60°C, ABS: 80-100°C. (it is suggested to disable
the model cooling fan for ABS in Advanced settings of Cura)
After operation, do not immediately switch off the printer. Only turn it off after
the nozzle cools to room temperature, because the heat sink still needs fan for
1.Feed the filament: click via the Home menu: “Tools”-->“Preheat”-->“Preheat PLA
(for example)”. After it reaches to the target temperature, press down the handle at
the extruder as shown in Fig. 30, and manually push the filament through the Teflon
tubing till the hotend and there should be filament melt through the nozzle.
Make sure the filament passes through the filament sensor first before reaching
For easier feed in the filament, it is suggested to cut offthe bent tip before insert.
2.Remove the filament: at the Home menu, click “Tools”-->“Preheat”-->“Preheat
PLA (for example)”. After it reaches to the target temperature, press down the
handle at the extruder as shown in Fig. 30, manuallypush in the filament firstly until
seeing the filament melt through the nozzle, then quickly draw out the filament. The
purpose of pushing in the filament is to minimize the risk of nozzle clogging.
ANYCUBIC Mega3D printer allows resume print job after accidently power loss.
*This function only valid when print offline (via SD card only).
1.As shown inFig. 31, in slicing software (i.e. Cura), it is required to place the model at the
rear of platform. Because during “Resume from outage”, machine will home first and
could touch/interfere with the unfinished object if the model was placed in the front
(Figure 32)
2.For the first time of using this function, customers are required to add “G5”to the
start.gcode, as shown in Fig. 33. Then, save the model as Gcode file to the SD card by
3.Insert the SD card (back side facing up) into the SD card slot at base. Print the just saved
file (i.e.“owl_pair”). The machine will automatically heating on and print.
During this printing, if there is an accidentpower loss, the print will stop immediately.
But after power comes back, customers could just choose the unfinished file and click
“Resume” (Fig. 34). Machine will home first and continuing on the unfinished object.
(Figure 34)
In order to get smooth surface, use tweezers to carefully remove the excessive
filament at nozzle before continuing print upon the last point.
Do not move Z axis after power off otherwise resume will be invalid.
ANYCUBIC Mega3Dprintersupports resume from outage only when print offline
This function is developed based on Cura. We could not guarantee this function
Due to the differences of filaments, temperature, extrusion, etc…we could not
guarantee a perfect surface at the point of “Resume from outage”, especially
1. Motor shaking or abnormal sound
①The corresponding end stop could not be triggered when Home, check the
wirings, and inspect any obstacles by manually moving the corresponding axis
②The motor cable are not connected properly, check each connection and then
2. File not printing or SD card failure
①Remove the SD card and insert into PC. Open the Gcode files using text editor
(eg. Notepad), and inspect if Gcode isreadable or not. If files contains of multiple
“ÿÿÿ” symbol, then file has been corrupted. Try reformatting the SD card to
②SD card is not readable, ensure file name does not contain special characters or
③Touch screen freeze, reboot the machine and try again
①Ensure that the nozzle temperature has been set to match the filament
③Not enough cooling for the hotend
④Nozzle clogged please try to replace it or clean it
4. Filament leaking
Nozzle or throat tube is tightened properly, try to fix/change it after cooling
①Print too fast at the bottom layer speed, reduce it to ~20mm/s
②Ensure that the print platform is clean (use alcohol if necessary)
④add a brim or raft to the model in slicing software
6. Warping/curling of the printed object
②Check the infill % of the Gcode. The higher the infill, the more likely to warp
③add a brim or raft to the model in slicing software.
①Print head moving too fast, slow down the print speed.
②Check X/Y belt and the driving wheel and ensure they are properly installed.
③Grease the rods and check all nuts and bolts remain tightened.
①Inspect if the touch screen has been pressed by the metal frame at the edge
②Check if screen has cracks, if so, please contact us at [email protected]
①Check the wiring of the hotend and ensure a good connection
②Check if there is any pins bent inside the connector
①Check if choosing the right machine type in slicing software
11. Print stopped halfway
②Delete plugins in the Gcode file
③Use print offline mode (SD card) instead of print online via USB