Anycubic Mega S Troubleshooting

Posted on  by admin

I bought a i3 Mega fromAnycubic on aliexpress about 3 months ago.

This is my first 3d printer.When i got it it worked like a charm, perfect prints, no problem what so ever.

Then after about 10 hours of printing the power button failed and there was no way to turn the printer off, just pul the plug was the only option.

This Guide includes:

  • Contacted anicubic support and then the long list of mails started, at the end i received a new power button.then a few hours of printing later the fan in the power supply made a sound if it is going to the moon like a rocket.
  • contactAnycubic again, now 4 weeks later still emailing with them but still no new fan or power supply.
  • The printer is working but have to wait a few minutes and then the noise stops and the fan is working.
  • but now the part where i need some help with.
  • I contactedAnycubic but the mailing is just begone so that will take a few weeks I think.
  • first there is the temp problem. I start a print and all temps start to rise, first the bed and then the nozzle, so far so good.
  • Then the printing starts and after a few layers the temp setting goes from 205 to 0 and the the fan cools the nozzle, the bed has no problem.If i'm close to the printer I pause it and manually set the temp back to 205, and resume the print.

Table of Content

Slicer

When i'm not close the printer keeps on printing without filament because the nozzle is cold.

Basics

hope some one knows what to do. then there is the second problem.

Bed

when I start a print all heats up and then the printer goes to home.

then the printing starts and then one site goes up faster then the other side, result is that the printer starts printing in the air or the nozzle slams on the bed.

both happen and you never know when and how. when I stop the print and level every thing I restart the print and most of the times it goes OK, next print will some time go OK but i'm never sure.

hope some one can help, IfAnycubic likes to help I let you know what was wrong but I think this will take a few weeks.

Leveling!

I recently acquired an anycubic i3 mega-s. I printed the basic shapes and had no problem whatsoever. When i started tweeking the print settings like speed, acceleration and jerk in Cura, I realised that the printer wouldn't react to any of those changes. It's always on full speed except if I tune it down in the Printer settings.

Bed handle​

Also it stops the print at some point ~20% if i do change the speed in the printer settings while it is printing.

Y-Tensioner

What I did for troubleshooting:. > changed the speed, acceleration and jerk to 10 mm/s etc.

Bed isolation

to see some change. > changed the slicer from Cura to Prusa. > changed the SD Card. > changed from SD Card to USB.

Hot End

Cover/Case

> updated the Firmware of the Printer to 1.1.5 (which it already had). > printed a heattower to see if the temp changes - which it does.

It is printing everything I want but at poor quality.. I really hope someone can help me out here.

The one image should have been a octopus but I stopped the print after seeing how badly the skirt was.

Part Cooling Fan Duct

There are several designs for fan ducts. I would say they really help, and I also use one.

A really big advantage is, that they provide cooling from both sides.

I use this Part Cooling Fan Duct.

Covers and cable management

This is just a little cover for the cables, doesn’t do much, but it protects the cables. cable holder

When you print high objects, the cable may get squeezed at the top.

To prevent this, you can use a cable guide.

For this, you must cut the old cable ties and put new cable ties on it.

You could also use this little Cover.

Or you print a Cable chain.

Filament

Buy whatever Filament you like. The most are even from the same manufacturer, but with another brand name on it.
I can recommend: Amazon Basic, Eryone, Geetech, 3D Jake …

Filament Spool Holder

(You don´t need this for the new Anycubic S Pro (Mega S)

Basically, the original filament spool holder is crap.

I remixed one from philwild. Mine fits perfectly together with the thing I will talk about next.

This is my filament spool holder: Filament Spool Holder

Filament Sensor Holder

(You don´t need this for the new Anycubic S Pro (Mega S)

I really had some Problems with the original magnetic ball thing. It always fell off, then I tried some other holder which leaded to filament breaking. So I designed my own.

With this holder, the Motor is mounted at an angle, so the filament doesn’t bend as much. Furthermore, the angle to the Spool holder is much better.

This is my Sensor Holder: Sensor Holder

However, you can also just disconnect the sensor.

Overall

This is just a nice tool rig. You can put all your tools in. Nothing more to add.

And a holder for your caliper:

Face Plate

This will really let your printer be the best out of all. Ok, no. It’s just for aesthetics.

So I want to list here 2 different Face Plates.

On my printer, I use this one:FacePlate

The white under this plate is just paper or any other material. Can be any color.

The other one:FacePlate

Vibration

The printer can sometimes vibrate very much.

The simple way: Just put some foam (when you order something, you will get some for sure) under the feet. It will help some, but not for long. But I still use it (I just order enough).

Nevertheless, you can print this: Squash Feet

These ones are not as high. (with my guide, you don’t need to mount the power supply fan outside, so the printer doesn’t need so much space beneath it.)

For this vibration dampers you need 4x Squash Balls.

Lighting

Ok, so there are basically 2 variations.

Lightning on the hotend, or lightning on the housing.

For the Hotend:

A ring lightning which directly lights the printed part:Ring LED Holder

A compatible led would be thisLED Ring 80mm.

Important! If you also have the fan duct installed, you need to print this one: ​Ring LED Holder 100mm

Furthermore you´ll need to buy the bigger LEDRing100mm.

Or you just glue some led´s into the cover. You need some 12V LED.

To install any leds, just connect it to the right fan cables.

For the Housing:

A led stripe around the printer.

To mount it print this: LED Mount

And a led strip.

You can cut the strip and just connect it to the powersupply.

Advanced

Ok, so you have done all above, but want your printer to be even better?

What about that loud sound’s you printer does? Do you have some Z wobbling?

OK, then make your Anycubic silent.

At this step, you have to open the bottom plate of the printer. Please turn the power off and unplug the cable!

Silent Printer

Power Supply Cover and Fan

One of the loudest fans on this printer is the PSU fan.

I got inspired from some other designs, and designed my own PSU cover.

On the one side, the power supply gets much more air, on the other side, it is much quieter with it.

You can find my blog post about it here:

Motor Driver Fan duct and Fan

Ok, next on the list is the fan next to the power supply.

​For this, I would recommend printing this fan duct: Fan Duct

Again, you also need a new, not as noisy fan. You need a 40mm x 10mm fan.

For fan installation, use the included orange plastic things to tighten them to the cover or fanduct. They reduce the vibrations a lot.

Motor Driver

When all your fans are quiet, there is still one sound. It’s a very high-pitched annoying sound.

But first check, if you even can swap your driver. On some, they are soldered on. On others not. It depends when and where you bought the printer. For this, you have to open your printer.

Swappable Drivers

The drivers are the small black boards with the silver heatsink on it. On the one, you can see that you can take it of and swap them. You can also see the black plastic mount below.

So if you have the swappable drivers you can go on.

Solderd Drivers

The 32bit Trigorilla board has soldered drivers. They are directly on the big board. When it looks like the picture above, you can´t swap your drivers (At least not without soldering).

If you have this board you could buy a new 16 bit Trigorilla board.

Swapping Drivers

You will need 5x TMC 2208: (for: X, Y, Z, E0 (Extruder), E1 (second Z)

There are some different versions on the market.

If you can find some, which are called V2.0 you just can swap then out.

Also, when you get them, check again if they are really V2.0

If you don´t find any, or got delivered others, you have to flash a new firmware.

Be sure, to then take the right hex file (Marlin-AI3M-vx.x.x-TMC2208.hex).

You can find more to this under the section Firmware.

I recommend these TMC2208.

Installation

Look at the marks on the board and on the driver, don´t put it in in the false direction.

When you install it, you must also check the voltage and probably change it.

For this you will need a mutlimeter.

There is no universal Vref. Its different for everyone. You will need to test it for your printer.

But at least, stay between 0,8 and 1,4 V.

My Voltage:
  • ​X driver = 1,15V
  • Y = 1,15V
  • Z (Z1) = 1,15V
  • E0 (Extruder) = 1,25V
  • E1 (second Z) = 1,15V

You can measure the voltage on the upper right hole (or on the screw, but you must turn this to change the voltage) on the driver and on the Ground GND.

Now just put the fan duct back on.

Testing

Now just test all axis. They should all work.

If not, open the printer again, and check if any driver is very hot (nearly burn your fingers). If yes, this driver is maybe broken.

If no one is too hot, check the voltage again. Than check the cables if every is plugged in correctly.

If it still don´t work just comment..

Also test printing a part.

When you get shifting layers or under extrusion, you have to increase the voltage a bit (in 0,05V or 0,1V steps).

Other

Z-Wobble

Maybe you have noticed it, maybe not. But the clutches for the Z-Axis are very stiff.

Therefore I changed them with better coulings.

These ones are much more flexible and will eliminate any Z-Wobbling.

But the installation is kinda pain.

You must unscrew the motors from the top, and then put the clutch out. ​

When you have the opportunity, you should take the screw drive out, and clean it (You will never do it again).

After cleaning, put a some oil or lubricant on it again.

Mosfet

Personally, I didn´t install it.

But there is a slight chance, that the motherboard could get to hot on very long prints.

Furthermore, it could than be destroyed.

You can print this Mosfet Holder: Mosfet Holder ; He also explains how to mount it.

And then buy two 2 pieces of a mosfet.

Firmware

The features of a new firmware:

  • No more annoying sound at the start.
  • PID Control
  • 12V at fan
  • Better print quality
  • Thermal runaway protection
  • mesh bed leveling

This guy did a really good job. He also describes everything very good: Firmware Upgrade

Please also read his explanation carefully!

But I will also do some simple explanation.

If you use still your stock driver take this version:

When you have the TMC2208 V2.0 take this version:

With any other (like TMC2208 V1.2) take this version:

To do the update, you now have to connect the printer to your pc.

Now, just open Cura, and go to Setting -> Printer -> Manage Printer -> and update firmware

Now select the right .hex and update it.

Calibration of the Extruder

First, you will need to download Pronterface:

Just start it up and connect it with your printer via usb cable.

Connection with MacPronterface Printrun software on Mac is via /dev/cu.SLAB_USBtoUART and is 250000

If the field under extrusion is red and you can´t write the extrusion length in it like it is on the picture below,
than follow try this steps: Printrun Pronterface Fix

Now on the printer, remove the plug or fitting on the extruder in which the filament tube is inserted.

Than cut the filament at the top of the extruder so you can measure the length later.

Now in Pronterface:

Write in the space right: ” M503 “and send it.

Should look like this:

Now search the “ M92 X80.00 …. “ line and note the values : E xx.xx

For example, mine: E92.60

At the left fill in at length:100mm at the speed 100mm/min

Than extrude 100mm filament

Now measure the length:

I measured: 96.56

Now calculate:

For me:

100/96.56*92.60 = 95.90

Than copy the “ M92 X80.00 …. “ line and change the E to your calculated E.

My Line would look like this:

Copy your own line than into the field and send it

Than type M500 and also send it.

Now you should be finished!

List of Spare Parts

Some spare parts which are special for the Anycubic Mega:

Thank you!

Just wanted to say thank you to this amazing community.

To everyone, who also built anything to make this printer better.

To everyone, who is helping others.

And especially to these people, which helped me at the beginning.

(*) This all was a lot of work, so I decided to make all my Amazon links, which I would have included anyway, to affiliate links.
There are not any costs for you. But when you buy with my link, I earn a bit.

Also if you want to donate you can do this here: