Packaging:The Zero was packed very well. Nice precut foam all around on every level. Everything was easy to remove and the accesories came packaged together. Be careful removing the foam around the printbed as the rear end stop could take damage if you yank the foam out with out moving the bed.
Printer came with a small amount of test filament.Assembly:Unlike some of the other printers in Anycubic's offerings, this is a kit. Very easy to assemble wiht the tools and instructions provided. No self wiring needed, just attach the ready to go connectors to the labeled pieces. Leveling the bed for the first time was pain free using the built in Level Corners function.Design:This printer has a rock solid base for the build plate to sit on using dual rails.
I prefer this to aluminum extrusion and wheels. Glides nicely and no worry about adjusting pressure on wheels to get the bed to move as it should.
Part & Tool List
- The print bed seems like a powder coated thick aluminum print bed. It is unheated but the textured surface provides good grip.
- The control box attaches easily. Using the knob to control access through the menu is intuitive and easy.
- The star of this machines design is the geared extruder, very similar in function to an E3D Titan Aero.
Installation Pictures and Information
Using the supplied Cura profile they printed great.The only thing that popped up was bed adhesion. As you can see in the test Owl print, towards the end of the print it separated from the print bed and turned into spaghetti. This type of bed surface requires a bit extra squish on the first layer to really grab a hold of it but can be tricky to remove if you don't have leverage.
To address this I printed my remaining tests with a brim. The brim separated easily and I did not have any further issues with adhesion or separating prints.
You could also apply blue tape to the print bed without squishing the first layer so hard and have great adhesion, I wanted to avoid changing the print surface but still get good results and the brim did that for me.Even at a .2 layer height while printing the results were great.
Powering the Bed and Printer
The longest print I did during my testing was just under 19 hours.I also did test the power loss recovery by turning off the machine, waiting 9hrs and turning it back on. The machine prompted me if I wanted to resume the print, I accepted and after rehoming the X and Y axis, resumed the print.
There was a tiny blob/zit on the surface of the print from where it restarted but other than that worked flawlessly. This is notable as if it would have been installed with the usual Ultrabase from Anycubic this would not have been possible, The print would have popped off the build plate after it cooled. The textured build surface allow me to kill the power to the machine, go to work and finish the print when I returned. Very cool.Conclusion:This printer is an incredible value at its price point ($200). It is easy to assemble, reliable and very capable.
Bed MOSFET Signal Line
This printer is now my go to FDM Miniature printer. I can't wait to put a .2 mm nozzle on it and start tweaking the Cura Profile to see how far I can push it. The lack of a heated bed is a hurdle to overcome.
For new people to 3D printing it will make you better and more aware of setting your printer up correctly.