"Engine hours" refers to the number of hours that your engine has been running since it was new. Many construction vehicles, trucks or other vehicles that spend a lot of time idling have a meter that tracks engine hours, which can give their operators a better handle on engine maintenance. Unfortunately, if your vehicle does not have an engine hour meter, there is no way to calculate its exact number of engine hours; however, if you know your average commute time and distance, there is an equation that can help you approximate your engine hours. Begin a typical week by resetting your trip meter to zero. Keep a stopwatch (one that will keep time for at least 20 to 50 hours) in your vehicle with you. Start the stopwatch each time you start your car, and stop it when you turn the engine off. After a week has passed, write down the total mileage from your trip meter and the total time from the stopwatch. Convert all minutes to hours for your time unit by dividing them by 60. Example: (30/60 = 0.5) 30 minutes = 0.5 miles; (15/60 = 0.25) 15 minutes = 0.25 miles; etc. Divide the mileage by the hours to determine your average travel speed for the week. Example: 375 miles driven in a week/18.5 hours = 20.27 average mph for the week.
Divide your vehicle's total mileage displayed on the odometer by your average mph for the week to determine an estimate of your engine hours. Example: 22,550 total miles/20.27 average mph = 1,112.48 engine hours. The number calculated by this formula is only an estimation, as there is no way to determine an exact figure without an engine hours meter. If your weekly commute has altered during the period you've driven your vehicle, then that needs to be taken into consideration. In addition, if you take regular, long highway trips with the vehicle, then your engine hours are probably a bit lower. The longer the period you use to determine the average mph you drive, the more accurate your end result will be. If your stopwatch goes high enough, try going an entire month to achieve a closer estimate.
You can purchase an engine hour meter for your vehicle if you do not have one. Things You'll Need. This method is intended only for drivers who have bought their vehicles new; it will obviously not be accurate if the vehicle was purchased used, as there is no way to tell what type of driving conditions a previous owner was operating under.
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Having made sure the fuelling and ignition are something like close, the oil is to required specification and poured in to the engine to the relevant level, the cooling system is full and no leaks are apparent, time to go for oil pressure. Remove the spark plugs, make sure the gearbox is in neutral and spin the engine over on the ignition key. Do this in bursts of around 5 seconds at a time so as not to over-heat the starter motor. With oil pressure showing, refit the spark plugs, and start the engine. Get it up to around 2,500 rpm. Using the idle screw on the carb is usually the easiest way of doing this. Break the cam and followers in as detailed earlier. That done, it's time to head out on to the road to run the engine in. This is the hardest part to describe.
Bearing in mind what I said earlier about the precision and component quality used in building engines now, what we are looking to do is rub in any high spots on adjacent surfaces, in particular piston rings and bore walls. To get the rings to bed in properly all that is really needed is several brief applications of full throttle with the gearbox in a high gear to generate high cylinder pressures. These force the piston rings out against the bore walls. The next part is presupposing the gearbox and final drive ratios have been matched to the camshaft/cylinder head specification. With the car travelling in 3rd gear at around 2,000 to 2,200 rpm, apply full throttle for around 8 to 10 seconds, then ease off smoothly to a light throttle coasting for around 30 seconds or so, then repeat. The light throttle coasting is to dissipate the heat that builds up under the full throttle periods. Ten to fifteen applications of full throttle should get the job done. Of course you need to be aware of any traffic around you so the full throttle applications may be further apart at odd times. After this build up throttle and rpm usage over the next 100 miles. At this point you should be closing in on using full throttle and high rpm for brief periods. At this point, change the oil and filter. During this running in period you need to be paying attention to how the engine feels and sounds. Rattling under load will usually indicate either too lean a fuel mixture or too much ignition advance, if not both. And keep an eye on the coolant temperature gauge! Stop the running in and sort any issues out before continuing to avoid engine component damage. After the first 100 miles the engine should feel smooth and free revving. I would very strongly advise getting the engine set up on a rolling road at this point. Put another 500 miles on the engine then change the oil and filter again.