Photon S Test File

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Bed Center Test. Diagonal Calibration Test. Anycubic Photon S RERF test using Ameralabs Town. Simple and quick test objects - Cylinder - Cube. Anycubic i3 mega bed test leveler. Masshaltigkeits Test. SLA/DLP testbox. Spikey Ball to test AnyCubic Photon printing of .1um thickness. Anycubic I3 Mega Leveling Test Model.

Anycubic i3 Mega Level Test. IP-webcam holder. Torture Test Monocure 3D. Kossel PID calibration. Calibration test. Dilophosaurus Attack! Prusa Fast First Layer Test - 10mins.

How to use Photon Workshop

Leveling Test for Anycubic MEGA-S (i3 Mega). Kossel Level Test. Solar thermometer case. H2O Rocket (Remote Launch). Photon Workshop is a 3D slicer software, It converts the stl/obj/xxx files into *.pws or *.photon files which can be read by Anycubic Photon printers.

We will update our open-source information on Github, please click HERE to get more information.

  • Download the software then install it on your computer. Choose Your Machine, Click The Menu Configure/Machine/Photon (S).

Related anycubic test STL files

Open files (.stl/.obj) . Scale / Rotate / Move the model (Optional). Slice and save as a sliced File (.pws/.photon depends on your machine. Copy the sliced file to a usb disk flash, and then insert the USB to Anycubic Photon 3D Printers to print. GPU must be supporting At LeastOpenGL 3.3or above. Memory Should be at least 8 G Or above. For Windows, You Can Download and Checkout The OpenGL version.

For MacOs, You Can Install OpenGL Extensions Viewer in App Store. Some Computer May Have Two Gpu Card, please choose a card with a higher GL Version. It’s not a shocking divulgence that Resin 3D printing gives astonishing print quality and objective over FDM. There’s a slight assumption to assimilate data for the people who have never used an SLA/DLP 3D printer, but this obstacle is vanquished quickly in light of the undeniable documentation, working on the web network, and other online resources.

The Anycubic Photon DLP 3D Printer has emerged as the most captivating option accessible. Anycubic has picked up a reputation for building strong and user-friendly printers like the Anycubic i3 Mega FDM 3D printer. With respect to the worth, the Anycubic Photon is no exception – it’s undoubdtedly the most affordable DLP 3D printers out there. Photo Credit:TechRadar.com. Things You Might NeedAnycubic Photon Build Plate.

Symptoms*.photon cut document arranged in anycubic/chitu slicer v1.3.6 or Chitubox isn’t identified or won’t print on a unique Photon printer. Check the firmware version of the printer, if it shows v3.4.x, at that point, you can be sure that your printer is not a unique Photon. There are other Photon printers, which are called a Fauxton. These are new printers that resemble a unique Photon.

Where to download the open-source code for Photon Workshop?

If your printer is not a fauxton printer, then you should contact the salesperson or showroom. But first, check your motherboard and firmware carefully. It’s the only way to determine whether you have the correct printer or not.

  • Attempt to reslice your model and acquire *.pws yield records.
  • These are the lone records that will print on a Fauxton. If you think you have been sold one of these new printers without your knowing, you should contact your Seller to see if it is the issue.
  • Printing freezes, aimlessly focuses, resets home screen. Irregular freezes with error code. Record program not showing any models.
  • USB key light pointer is off, yet connected (it ought to consistently be on.). On the off chance that you squirm the USB key, you can peruse documents once more. Supplant stock USB key with a realized decent marked one, formatted to FAT32.
  • Just have one document on USB, utilizing short name and no non english characters or spaces. Chances are that difficulty actually happens when you may have an inadequate USB augmentation link or flawed mainboard.

Test with another USB Extension link. You can undoubtedly get to this by eliminating the four screws holding the back vent board. UNPLUG POWER BEFORE DOING THIS! Unplug the male connector to the mainboard and plug in a substitution, at that point plug in your USB key. On the off chance that this fixes the issue.

If not, contact Anycubic for substitution link as it utilizes an extraordinary outer mount. On the off chance that you have a little USB key, you can plug it straightforwardly to the mainboard for testing, (Not suggested as a perpetual arrangement.).

On the off chance that the issue isn’t tackled with a substitution USB link, at that point you may have a defective mainboard. Contact Anycubic quickly for a substitution or new machine. Firmware updates won’t address the USB issue in this case. Prior to printing attempt to eliminate power link with no USB connected, sit tight for 1 min at that point plug force and USB back in.

Conceivable reason may be IC Memory cradle issue, unplugging the force should reset it. Check if printer driver reference voltage is between 1.07V to 1.16V. If not, tune it to around those figures. Check power supply unit (PSU) version. Early versions are known to be broken. Supplant with another 12V 6A unit. The Anycubic Photon Slicer as of now doesn’t uphold integrated illustrations driver, or goals above 2K. The fabricate plate effectively inclines side to side in any event, when grub/mount screw is fixed,.

The construct plate sits excessively high from the FEP and can’t bring down any further. Dismantle fabricate plate get together, clean and reset rotating conjuncture. Check your assemble plate mount screws. Remove the grub screw. Remove the four screws holding the assembled plate.

Fix three additional screws inside that help secure the rotating conjuncture. Make a point to clear out any resin with IPA or different solvents. All screws should be tight. Realign and change the fabricated plate. On the off chance that you can’t fix down the construct plate with the grub screw, ensure there isn’t two tightens there.

Non-irregular layer antiquities were noticeable on surfaces regardless of the direction of print.

  • Predictable banding lines around 2mm separated. Predictable distorted prints. To begin with, take a stab at cleaning the lead screw (Z pole) and reapply with great quality thick oil.
  • FEP film might be loose. Supplant the FEP film. Fix the whimsical roller of the slide block. The metal nut of the lead screw might be loose or not situated appropriately. Eliminate, clean, reset and fix the four screws.
  • Bowed or distorted engine dampener/pad. Open back vent incubate, check and supplant if fundamental. Engine mount causing the lead screw to be askew or not opposite to LCD glass. Fix the two screws that hold the engine.

Some of the time, relaxing the two screws marginally may give an impermanent fix. Supplant whole coordinated engine lead screw gathering.

Anycubic Photon Troubleshooting

Just happens on specific prints, contingent upon arrangement as well as calculation. Prints seem as though they have been cut/cut and moved onto another piece of the assemble plate.

Layer pictures on LCD look sheared and don’t compare to layer pictures indicating effectively on touchscreen. Checking the Photon document uncovers no issues. Firmware bug influencing all firmware aside from v4.0.11 (Fixed in 4.2.18+). Do a ‘dry run’ and use a timelapse camera to check if the LCD pictures move or shears during print. The recommended fix is to overhaul firmware to 4.2.18+.

Requirements

Anycubic Photon Slicer Does Not Run. LCD screen displays Only Half Screen. LCD shows just a large portion of the screen, touchscreen show shows effectively. (This not identified with glimmering LCD issue). Update show driver. Reinstall slicer program. Reinstall C++ conveyance library. Check if all link associations are situated effectively.

Contact to Anycubic Support. Update or reflash firmware acquired from the Anycubic site. SymptomsA shape when printed ends up being not entirely squared. Chambers have a lean. Watch that the rail section is opposite to the red base plate.

FAQ

It very well might be a little degree off, and could be inclining forward or to the sides, or a blend. Utilize a little specialist’s square to check precisely. On the off chance that the segment is inclining it will make prints slant. Change the 4 mounting jolts for the section, you may need to release and fix so the segment is entirely vertical. It takes some experimentation to take care of business.

If not, you should shim the segment base. In the wake of leveling and setting Z=0 effectively, prints actually fall flat. Check if the carriage arm is hitting the highest point of the tank divider and is accordingly kept from arriving at Z0 to the lower part of the tank.

A basic fix is to add 4 washers as spacers to the 4 screws that safe the construct plate to the rotating conjuncture gathering.

Lethargic Z Carriage, LCD Inactive, Dead Fans. On boot, Z carriage doesn’t move, touchscreen Z controls are lethargic.

How to check if my Gpu support OpenGL 3.3 or above ?

LCD test shows nothing on screen, fans are dead. Terrible closure, or force interference, regardless of how slight in some cases makes defilement the EEPROM. Download the production line defaults gcode record and reflash EEPROM. Or on the other hand, update the firmware. We hope you find the needed help from our article.

We are offering guidance to you based on our experience, anyway, we don’t ensure our recommendation will solve all your issues. We don’t concede any risk or obligation at all for any issues this article may cause you.

You are liable for your activities to guarantee you work securely and inside satisfactory/suggested changes permitted by your printer producer.

  1. For any kind of suggestion Contact us.
  2. Import the STL file of the model you downloaded in step 3 into PrusaSlicer.
  3. Right click on the imported model and select optimize orientation.
  4. Select the "hollowing" option from the toolbar to hollow out the model. You want to do this to minimize the amount of resin needed. I use wall thickness of 0.2 mm.
  5. Select the "supporting" option from the toolbar to add supports to the model. Use support point density between 60-75% because anything above that is overkill and will make cleaning your print much harder.
  6. From the menu bar export the plate as STL including supports.

Z Wobble/Non-Random Layer Artifacts

Now that we have an STL file with supports we need to convert it into a format the Photon S understands how to print. Essentially we have to create all of those millimeter thin slices that are going to be printed and stacked on-top of one another.

While Anycubic provides software for this it is absolute trash. I have never seen anyone on the Internet recommend it. The gold standard seems to be Chitubox. Unfortunately they require you to create an account to download their software which means giving China your email but c'est la vie.

Once you have Chitubox installed you need to import your STL with supports. On the right hand side you should see two buttons, "Settings" and "Slice". There should be no need to change the settings right now but you should be aware of it because it is where you would go to increase the exposure time or accuracy of your prints. But these are things that you should only need to change in the future when you are doing more serious prints.

Once the STL with supports is imported you should click on the "Slice" button and watch as the software computes the hundreds of slices needed to print the model. When it finishes you should have a screen that shows the amount of resin needed and the estimated time of the print. There should also be a slider you can play with to view each individual slice that will be printed. Save the output into the ".photons" format make sure your filename begins with an underscore as the Photon S only recognizes files that start with _. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Copy the .photons file to the USB drive and we're finally ready to print.

“.photon” files can’t be detected or won’t print on Photon printer

We finally have a USB drive full of .photons files we want to print. Time to plug it into the printer and fill up the vat with resin.

First things first, take all the proper safety precautions. You are about to work with raw resin so ensure you are wearing nitrile gloves, safety goggles, and a mask. The room must be properly ventilated which means opening up windows, doors, and turning on any fans you might have. Lay down whatever shop towels you feel necessary to catch any potential spills.

Before you pour the resin you should shake it for 20-30 seconds to ensure it is well mixed. If your resin has been sitting idle for a long period of time the pigmentation may settle which can result in poor prints. Don't shake it too hard because that can cause air bubbles to form. You're just looking to ensure there is a nice mix.

If you look at the inside of the resin vat you should see a very distinct change in color around a centimeter from the bottom. The is an indicator of the maximum amount of resin you can pour into the vat, which is around 70 milliliters. There is no problem with pouring below this line if you know your prints need less resin but you should never pour above it. If you do you risk serious damage to your build plate because the resin will overflow and get into the build plate's ball bearings.

Generally speaking the lips of these resin bottles aren't great for pouring so be very deliberate with your motions. Slowly tilting the bottle until resin comes out is probably going to result in more resin ending up on the bottle than in the vat. I recommend quickly tilting the bottle to be perpendicular to the vat and then gently move it upright to slow the pour.

Now it is time to start the print using the touch screen. When it commences you should see the build plate lower all the way down until it is submerged in the resin. If this is your first print I recommend coming back every 30 minutes or so to make sure things look to be progressing. If it looks like your print has suddenly been cut in half that probably means something was configured wrong and you don't want to continue wasting resin.

Anycubic Photon Slicer Does Not Display STL

When your print finishes you don't want to immediately remove it from the printer. Wait at least 10-15 minutes to allow all of the raw resin that is on your print or build plate to drip back down into the vat. It will make the cleanup process that much easier. Personally I have set prints to run overnight and came back to them hours after they've finished. As long as your printer isn't exposed to sunlight there should be no issues because the resin has no way to cure.

It is now time to use your Anycubic Wash & Cure machine to clean the print. First fill the sealed plastic container with at least two liters of isopropyl alcohol. That amount will ensure that even for larger prints you will be able to completely submerge it as well as the build plate. Place the container onto the machine and ensure it locks into place.

Now we need to move the build plate from the printer to the wash & cure machine. Take the adjustable "S shaped" bracket which is designed to be used with the Photon S and place it on some shop towels in-front of you. You are about to remove the build plate from the printer and it is inevitable that some raw resin will drip from it. Unscrew the red knob of the build plate, remove the build plate from the printer and attach it to the "S shaped" bracket. Lower the build plate into the container you've filled with isopropyl alcohol and attach the bracket to the top of the machine. Adjust the bracket using the black knob so that every part of the build plate that has been touched with raw resin is submerged.

I rewrote the previous paragraph a dozen times because this a very important step that is incredibly hard to describe. If you need some visual help check out this video from Anycubic's YouTube channel:

Once you're certain everything is affixed correctly, place the yellow lid over the machine and flip the power switch. Ensure the "Wash" mode is selected and I recommend setting the time to 6 minutes. You really want to ensure your prints are thoroughly cleaned. When you press the start button the fan at the bottom of the container will start spinning and you should see a powerful vortex being created. This will knock lose all of the raw resin in the crevices of your print and allow it to float to the bottom of the container. Half way through the time the fan will switch directions to really help ensure your print is cleaned.

When the time expires go ahead and remove the lid of the machine and slowly lift the bracket and build plate out of the isopropyl alcohol. Let the build plate hang there for a moment so any remaining alcohol can drip off. Rotating the build plate so each corner is the lowest point speeds up this process. When no more alcohol is dripping transfer the build plate to some shop towels and remove the "S shaped" bracket.

Free Build Plate/Plate Too High

Your build plate and print should now be completely clean but they are still attached to one another. Using the plastic spatula provided with the printer, gently try to pry the print off the build plate. This should not take much force at all. Slide the spatula in-between the print and build plate in a number of different places and it should pop right off. You'll be surprised how easy this actually is. You may find that sliding the spatula under one tiny side is all that it takes so be prepared to catch your print. We don't want any of those fine edges to be damaged.

Let the print sit for two or three minutes so the remaining isopropyl alcohol on it can evaporate. While this is happening double check that your build plate is clean and if there are any blemishes use a bit of isopropyl alcohol on a towel to clean it. Then feel free to reattach it to your printer so the build plate is out of the way.

By now your print should be clean and dry so we can move onto removing any supports it may have. You want to do this before you cure the print because removing the supports after they have cured is a more much arduous process.

The easiest way to remove supports is by hand. Unfortunately it is also the easiest way to damage your print. Be very careful because once you've popped a support off, if you let it snap right back to its previous position it will most likely end up scratching the surface of your print. When you pull off a support you ideally want to break off a part of it entirely so it can never touch your print again.

You can also use the citadel fine detail cutters I recommended you purchase. These are great for not only removing supports from your model but also disconnecting supports from the base so they can be more easily removed by hand.

The biggest problem with removing supports is that no matter how much you read about my experiences or watch dozens of videos on YouTube, there is no way to truly be prepared for this until you try it yourself. Nothing beats hands on learning and you're just going to have to accept that for your first couple of prints you're probably going to make mistakes.

After you've removed all the supports and used the fine detail clippers to eliminate any "hang nails" that are left, it is time to move on to curing the print. Remember that all the supports you've been removing are still technically uncured resin and could be toxic. Ideally you would cure them by leaving them out in the sun for a bit before tossing them and the shop towels you've used into the trash.

Slicer Won’t Display Model/Does Not Work

Thanks to the Anycubic Wash & Cure machine you're now at the simplest step in this whole process.

Attach the glass curing base to the machine, place your print on it, ensure "Cure" mode is selected and the time is set to 6 minutes. Place the lid over the machine and press start. Easy peasy.

If your print is on the larger size or has strange curves or crevices feel free to reposition it and put it through the cure process a second time. It is technically possible to overcure a print but we're talking along the lines of doing it for hours. So basically don't leave your prints out in the sun. Generally speaking 5-15 minutes is all that is needed to properly cure a print.

Once the curing process is complete your print is done! Go ahead and post a picture on Instagram and jump back to step 3 to start this all over again.

Layer Shifting/Shearing On LCD During Print

When you are not going to be printing anything for a day or two it is best to clean up your workspace and put everything into proper storage.

The resin vat is going to be your biggest nuisance so it is what I recommend you tackle first. There will always be leftover resin in the vat and the easiest way to clean it up is to pour it back into the bottle. Take the resin bottle, open it up and place it wherever you are most confident you can clean up a spill, because you're probably going to. For myself that is on-top of some shop towels on the silicon mat I have. Get out one of the paint filters you purchased and then unscrew and remove the resin vat from the printer.

Now we have come to the tricky part. For the love of all that is holy, DO NOT put the filter into the neck of the bottle and let it rest there. If you do, when you pour the resin it will seep out through the paper and run down the side of the bottle leaving you with a fucking horrendous mess to clean up.

The trick is with your non-dominate hand, hold the paint filter so that it is in the neck of the bottle but not touching any sides. With your dominate hand, pick up the resin vat and using the notch in the one corner of the vat, slowly pour the resin back into the bottle. If you do this right the paint will go straight down the filter into the bottle even if it seeps out the sides.

If everything I just wrote is still too difficult to visualize Anycubic has a video on their YouTube channel that I wish I had watched first so I didn't end up cleaning a massive resin spill at 2 am.

See how they don't let the paint filter rest in the bottle until the VERY end! DO THAT!

Once the majority of the resin is back in the bottle use shop towels and isopropyl alcohol to clean up the leftovers. Cure these cleaning materials in the sun for 15 minutes before you throw them out.

Add the resin vat back to printer and store it somewhere out of the sun along with your sealed isopropyl alcohol container.

Fabricate Plate Does Not Reach Z0 Bottom

Congratulations! You've successfully printed something using an Anycubic Photon S. It wasn't that hard right? 😋

Now that you have the basics down there is still much more to learn. There are dozens of settings in both pieces of software I referenced that you can tweak to get more out of your prints. I have barely touched any of them myself. I am still very much in the beginnings part of my 3D printing journey but I hope this guide helped you overcome any anxieties and allowed you to jump in with both feet.